Checkelec

[Helge]

You only do need to push the power button... Still it do not seem to work?

Maybe you didn't see my previous answer as it was lost in the flow of replies but on my Vgate, it works perfectly ! The OBD goes sleeping after 30min and when I push the button it turns on again ! The pictures of my Vgate below. In any case the problem is a hardware problem with the OBD and not with the app.

Oh yes, I saw your answer     But I was replying to a post by "terjeeri" where he explains that he experiences exactly the same problem as me. His Vgate does not seem to wake from sleep either, when pushing the power button.

[Elmo]

I can leave the car for hours, and when I return I can open the Checkelec APP and get communacation with the can right away.

Yes but you don't have this hardware function on your OBD device. So it remains active all day long.

Yes, it is probably on all the time.
But it does not activate the car unless the APP is connected. Ie. waterpump is not running, but starts running again when the APP sais OBD connected.
So Ithink the is good.

[Elmo]

The maybe strangest thing here is that to me the device in the middle (that does not work at all), and the one onthe right (that works very good) looks identical.

These are all chinese copies of the OBD. There are copies of the plastic box, copies of the electronics inside. So you can have the same box with a different electronics inside.

Actually, when I look more closely, not even the plastic is same. 
I post this only to help others distinguish between good and bad ones. The bade one here I actually bought i a shop in Norway 
See pictures. The good one to the right have numbers on the pins and a "better" OBD logo.

[Elmo]

Now that I see live values in the APP I think some info in the middle below are a kind of strange:
1. "Overlading" = 110 Ah
2. "Vannfyllingsteller" = 0 Ah.
3. "Terskelverdi Vannfylling" = 450 Ah.

Actually I haven't studied this data, I just displayed it in the app as it was in the Lexia software. I might have inverted some of them, so it could be a good thing to check these values with the Lexia but I think it is correct.
Not that theses values are transmitted by the ECU in tenth of Ah (the last zero is added at display), that 's why they always finish with a zero !
It is strange that your "Utlading" and "Vannfyllingsteller" displays are both zero. Let me know if this changes with future drivings. I have the feeling that these values only change at each charge but are not updated in real time. But I'm not sure.
I'm also not sure but I would say that when the value of "Vannfyllingsteller" is equal or above the value of "Terskelverdi vannfylling" the water refill is requested (warning light on).

I have now checked with LEXIA and all your number are correct
My P106 actually have the waterfill-limit set to 450 (which is very good) and not 870 (which is way to high). I relly wonder how that happened (never seen this ever before).

The values you see is zero are also OK. The counters have been cleared/reset.
See pictures from today below. I have run the car down to 50% and not charged it yet. Hense Discharge is 50Ah and Counter still 0Ah.

[Helge]

A nice thing with the Vgate is that it is small and fits under the "fusebox/OBDII-socket plastic cover" (cover can be on). Is that also the case with Prodiag (link from Steens) and the unit you have shown Elmo?

[Elmo]

A nice thing with the Vgate is that it is small and fits under the "fusebox/OBDII-socket plastic cover" (cover can be on). Is that also the case with Prodiag (link from Steens) and the unit you have shown Elmo?

Maybe different from car to car, but in my Saxo 2000 even the bigger one fits under the cover, and in all my P106es the OBD is not behind the cover at all (they are just below the whole dash-plastic).

[Helge]

Actually, when I look more closely, not even the plastic is same. 
I post this only to help others distinguish between good and bad ones. The bade one here I actually bought i a shop in Norway 
See pictures. The good one to the right have numbers on the pins and a "better" OBD logo.

Not much help I am afraid...    Even the shown images for units that costs only $ 5.28  (nok 41) show a box with "the better OBDII" letters and the most colorbright sticker. Not possible to see if the pins are numbered though. What the units they send looks like - you do not know. I recently received a car antenna (ebay buy) with an antenna foot identical to the one in the picture (and on the car) but the antenna rod was approx half the length and NOT as shown in the picture 

[Helge]

Hi Steens, one more input from me: In Checkelec the current is shown as positiv when current is drawn out of the battery and fed into the motor. I call that current from the motor perspective    In an electrical vehicle I do however believe that a battery perspective makes more sense. That mean that when you are driving up hill using 100 A you would see - 100 A from your battery while when driving down another road regenerating may see that you battery "gets" + 60 A.

This is not a big issue for me, but I see the Robometer (in one of my Saxo's and my P106) used in a number og Saxo and P106 electric (a least in Norway) do show positive current when the battery is charged and negative current when current is pulled from the battery.

Example of Robometer display

[Elmo]

This is not a big issue for me, but I see the Robometer (in one of my Saxo's and my P106) used in a number og Saxo and P106 electric (a least in Norway) do show positive current when the battery is charged and negative current when current is pulled from the battery.

This is of course a matter of opinion.
But, to get spent/used kWh as a positive figure, then the current should be positive when drawn from the battery (P=U*I).
It is a while since I saw an operating Robometer but I wonder how yours show the kWh counter ??
Because I think (but I am not sure) that maybe the reason why you see negative current in the picture is because your Robometers current-coile has been installed the wrong way ??

[Helge]

No, no, no Elmo. The image in the post above is from elbilhjelpens website!! Wrong direction on the current pickup there too? ...and in addition in both the PSA's were I have Robometers? I expect that all these 3 Robometers are installed by different persons (but I do not know for sure. However I know who installed ONE of them and he has not installed any of the two others!).

I will check energy readings in mine

This is of course a matter of opinion.

Yes of course it is! Main focus on battery or motor. If battery is main focus both current and energy could show negative when you drain the battery. When you subtract energy (minus) the battery will eventually be empty. When you add energy it will soon be "full".

[Elmo]

I have installed a Robometer ones but as I said dont remember much now.
Anyway. My cars have PacTracR installed. It has used current (out of the battery) in positive (+) figures, and re-generated current (into the battery) in negative (-) figures.
And used power (delivered from the battery to the motor) in positive figures.

[Steens]

This is of course a matter of opinion.

Yes of course it is!

Yes, both sign convention are acceptable, just a question of point of view  . For Checkelec I just followed the same convention as in the Lexia software. Except for the charge : if you monitor the charge with Checkelec, you will see that sign convention changes and that the current is positive when feeding the battery. I felt it more intuitive in that way.

Another concern could be the readability of the graph. Following your question, I tried to invert the sign convention in Checkelec and tested it today :
The current curve is now varying in the same directions as the voltage curve and sometimes hides it :

[elektrolux]

On Robometer current is always counted refers to battery as this is a BMS system. ( Battery Monitoring System ) After a full charge you see +15 Ahr as info on overcharging, and this is immediately zeroed out when starting to drive so all consumption is negative. 

With this graph on this app in mind its better to keep as is so Voltage drops as current increases.

[Helge]

Another concern could be the readability of the graph. Following your question, I tried to invert the sign convention in Checkelec and tested it today :
The current curve is now varying in the same directions as the voltage curve and sometimes hides it :

Yes Steens, readability of the voltage&current graph is a good argument but so far in my eyes the only argument against choosing positive polarity for currents into the battery. However seeing the variations in voltage and current going the same way will partly give a better impression on the status of the battery.

Again this issue about polarity is not a big issue for me but the most clever and versatile way Checkelec could do this would be for the user in SETTINGS to be able to choose/change the polarity  based on needs and preferences. Maybe you could even choose/change to divide the screen horizontally with one trace in the upper half and the other trace in the lower part. If this is user selectable in the settings it would be great 

[Elmo]

. . the most clever and versatile way Checkelec could do this would be for the user in SETTINGS to be able to choose/change the polarity based on needs and preferences.