Heater dissecting, no what ?

[Poppe]

Just checked the Enable and Fault.
I connected the 12V connector only and when I turn ignition and fan on I get 12V to enable of the heater.
I also measured between Enable and Fault. If I understand it right the Fault shall go to ground when the heater shall be disabled. I can immediatly measure 12V between E and F when ignition is turned on. Is this because of a fault or because HV is not connected ?

Should I connect HV and try again, without water? Or should I pour som clean water into the heater and but not connect it to the heating system ? I really dont want a lot of antifreeze all over the place again.

[Poppe]

I just did what I suggested above.
The mrs was the ignition on/off person and immediatly, when switching on, the Nicometer now shows about 4kW more then before she reported !!
After about a minute steam started to come out of the heater.
It works again but how and why ?

[Warlock]

Maybe the heater reset itself when you disconnected everything and grounded some lines (for instance the enable line)? We do not know exactly how this resetting safety system (fuse) works...

[Poppe]

I thought it said in the heater manual that it was self reseting for evry problem except over voltage ?

Thanks Warloch and Nikolay for your support 

[Frederic]

Hi !

Could this be of some use ?

[Warlock]

Hi !

Could this be of some use ?

Yeah!
Forgot about that one (when i saved this pdf i noticed i had one with the same name ).
The software in the Climate control module might be doing strange reset tries, or just cutting out the enable signal all together. It might even set the line in a tri-state...

[Poppe]

Thanks Fredric
Unfortunatly my Think is not in the VIN range for the field action
5372 to 6113. Mine is 4230.

[Poppe]

The warm feeling form the heater did not last very long. 2-3 days according to my son the driver.
I now suspect I have a intermittent break somewhere.

[EXCEL]

Hi,
I did repair the heater on my car. It allso worked intermitten. The fault was bad soldering of the wires going to the temp sensor. The sensor i situated in a seald copper tube in the midle of the heating elements.

[BauDemo]

Hi,
I did repair the heater on my car. It allso worked intermitten. The fault was bad soldering of the wires going to the temp sensor. The sensor i situated in a seald copper tube in the midle of the heating elements.

Do you happen to have any photo showing the sealed copper tube? It would really help!

[EXCEL]

Hi,
I did repair the heater on my car. It allso worked intermitten. The fault was bad soldering of the wires going to the temp sensor. The sensor i situated in a seald copper tube in the midle of the heating elements.

Do you happen to have any photo showing the sealed copper tube? It would really help!

You can see it on your own picture, on the right side near the top 

[BauDemo]

This is not my picture, but just to make sure here is the same photo with marked what I think you mean... does the arrow point to the tube that needs to be openend?

[EXCEL]

Yes, this is the one. The sensor is placed in the tip of the copper tube.
Please note that the tube is filed with some kind of flexible glue.....

[BauDemo]

Yes, this is the one. The sensor is placed in the tip of the copper tube.
Please note that the tube is filed with some kind of flexible glue.....

Thanks - good to know!
What/how did you do it? If you were to do it again what would you do differently?

Is it possible to unscrew the tube, or it needs to be cut?

[EXCEL]

I had to split the tube to access the sensor and the two wires. I re soldered the connection. I introduced a new copper tube. This copper tube was flatten and soldered in the end situated inside of the heater chamber. Please make sure that the sensor works before moving on. If the sensor is faulty, you can by a new one from Elfa.se (73-276-79) 
Then I reinserted the sensor and filed the tube with SicaFlex.