hma wrote i the other thread:

SitatFør man kjøper en slik må man måle om "power current elevatoren" (kortslutningskretsløpet) er permanent kortsluttet.
Det kan man gjøre ved å måle motstand mellom HV- og halvledersikringen.

Unfortunatly he does not mention what the result of the measurement should be

I managed to work myself into the yellow polyuerathane (?) which was quite easy with the help of a heatgun and a screwdriver. Mustn't heat to much though since the PU, if it is, gives off toxic fumes when too hot (smoking).

Anyway, from HV+ I have zero resistance to either side of the big fuse. Not sure if this is good or not ?
Have not been able to check the HV yet since the Think has only been at home in the dark.

Fortunatly I have a gen1 CPU.

I'm I correct to understand that if I had had a Gen2 the connector to the heater would have had 4 wires ? Two for the HV +/- and two for diagnostics to check the connector is in place ?

My plug is round and has only two wires.

Thanks Warlock for your input.
I tried to read the whole thread and that took a while.

If I understand everything correctly I should measure the HV power where the heater is connected. If I measure 370V there the fault must be in the heater itself and then its likely that it is the big fuse that has left the building.

I took the heater apart to see if I could fix it.
Heres whats inside for you who has not done this operation:





If I measure the input resistance on the orange HV wires I find its about 700 Ohms, obviously too high.
Inside there are two heater elements both measuring about 12 Ohms which seems to be OK.

All cables are going in to the yellow plastics at the bottom of the heater and I figure there is something inside there which has gone wrong. The 10.000 dollar question is whats inside the plastic ?

Anybody knows ?

As far as I understand from the schematic there are three High Voltage attachments, +, - and ground. Are those detachable at their other end so I dont have to have 370V dangling in the engine comprtment ?
Are these cables always live ?

There are also three cables from the climate control unit, one "demand for heat", one diagnostic and one ground.
If I dont use the heat at all i.e. keeps the fan switch to 0 I guess the demand for heat can be left out in this discussion but what is expected from the diagnostic connection ? Is that only a NTC/PTC inside the heater and if so what resistance should I use ?

My water heater hss broken down but I have read here that there are rebuilt units avaliable.
My question is, can I drive the car without the heater connected (while I rebuild it) or will that cause some problems?

Ah!
Thanks for the explanation.

Sitatand didn't work at all in Norway.

Yes, that's the cable I have.
Thanks guys for sorting it out for me, now I understand and it all comes together.
I wonder why this information is not in the manual ?


BTW
Sjokomelk wrote "Do you have the first version of the charging cable with a button and four LEDs?"
Does this mean there is a second version ?

Thanks !

OK so I push the leaf button and selects the middel tab and I see this:


Now if I push the only selectable button I go to here :


This a bit off topic but when I go down and check the car at about 1700 hours I see this message:

The charging is suddenly 2 hours longer, maybee due to the setting of the charge power ?
The setting at the cable is at full blast and 4 leds are green.

Hi Guys

I am new to this subforum but have driven a Think gen 2 for the past years and before that a gen 1 and bef.......

Anyway, I bought a Volt 2012 last week at an auction and I have read in the manual that in some models its possible to set the charging current in the touch screen. I cant figure out how to do that ?
Now my car as every option with navi, rear camera, BT, voice etc. and I figure they would not ad such a feature in a lesser equipped car.
So, is it possible to set the current and if so, how ?

This information I just read at the http://thinkcitypdx.com/blog/?p=4#comment-28 recommended by Fredric a few threads down.

"Before putting the key in the ignition and turning it on, and also before turning the key off, always turn the blower off. ........ Otherwise it is possible to permanently immobilize your car."

It appears if you turn the ignition switch off-on quickly with the fan running there is a fat chance you will blow the precharge circuit in the PCU.

There is a quite long and informative text about what happens.

I have never heard anything about this, did you ?

Last week my lever for the front hood opening broke again. I changed it shortly after buying the Think about 2 years ago. It had always been quite hard to pull and finally this took its toll on the lever.

I went to the Ford dealer and asked for a new one costing about SEK 200 the last time and got a little shock when he told me that this part was discontinued and there was no substitute. It seems Ford discontinues parts when they are about 15 years old and the last time this was used was in Mondeo -98.

Luckily it is possible to open the hood without this lever but it is not a quick fix.

Has anybody else had this problem ?
How did you solve it ?

I would love to share the P/N but this was 18+ months ago and my memory is not that good. It was no problem for the Ford guy to find it though.
I wonder if not the P/N is on the handle or handle base ?

My handle was broken when I bought my Think. Bought a new original at Ford (for the Mondeo) for SEK 120 includingthe wire.