Trilling med dobbeltlader eller tre? Forarbeider og tankespinn

[elekTrond]

Vet det er flere her som går med lignende tanker. Samt at eiere av andre elbil-merker allerede har gjennomført en slik oppgradering. Siden det ikke haster, har jeg ikke tatt meg tid til å studere verken elskjema eller hvordan det har blitt gjort i andre biler, det være seg eGolf/Tesla dobbelt-lader eller GDS prosjekt i Leaf eller eldre elbiler.

Driver så smått og sanker sammen litt priser og sånn mtp. mulig prosjekt når garantien har flydd sin veg.

Handleliste:

   
• BATTERI LADER ELBIL CITROEN C-ZERO, 2011->>
  Pris: 3575,- Inkl.mva
  http://finndel.no/delinfo.aspx?dnr=318782&f=x59&bk=053601&dk=0233&no=1&regnr=
  
  Delnr        318782
  Reg.no        EK10285
  Chassisnummer    VF71NZKZZCU902940
  
  
• BATTERI LADER INNTAK ELBIL til MITSUBISHI I-MIEV, 2010->>
  http://finndel.no/bildeler.aspx?dk=0234&bk=372801
  3x á 1750,- m/mva
  
• ?

Vil gjerne høre andres erfaringer på området. Hvis det er noen som er ivrige og har midler til å kjøpe inn deler nå med det samme, er det bare fint. Så slipper jeg. 

[Karl-Wilhelm]

Du er ikke alene om dette, men det er dessverre endel innbakte sikkerhets protokoller du må rundt, noen ganske kreative løsninger ute å går dog.

http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=1750#p12471

It doesn't appear that the I-MiEV likes a parallel charger. I have tried this and when you increase the total input power above about 5 KW, the vehicle charger shuts down. I think that the battery current sensor is sending a signal to one of the controllers that the vehicle charger is inputing too much current and therefore it shuts down to protect it. That being said, I do charge with a 12 KW charger directly into the traction battery by making a connection at the inverter where the pack cables enter. I have a 175 amp anderson connector mounted on the car to connect the charger which is a Manzanita Micro PFC-50B. To do this, you must place the car in the "ready" mode to get the HV contactors to close. As far as the car is concerned, you are driving down a steep incline and are in the regen mode. You won't see it on the dash display as the car would normally be in park, however if you move it into any drive position, you can see the display move almost half way into full regen---12 KW is delivering about 32 amps back to the traction battery. Even at that level you are only charging at less then 1C rate. When in park, the BMU is accurately recording "KW in" so the SOC indicator is working correctly. An additional benefit to this method is with the car in the "ready" mode, you can use the vehicle A/C to provide cold air into the pack (if your car has the battery warmer or QC option) during charging. The only downside to this is that I don't believe the battery balancers can work until there is a lower current input. When you charge normally, the charger current falls off and (I am again guessing) the balancers are switched on. The balancers can't shunt high currents, therefore can't operate at high charge levels. I also think that's why QC charging terminates at 80% or so. I never charge above 80% (voltage limited) with the 12 KW charger. I will only do this a couple of times before I do a full charge with the vehicle charger to allow balancing. I haven't had any problems to date. I you want to charge off a Solar system and have a voltage regulator on it set so you cannot exceed a specified voltage---say 355 or so--then you could use this method. Just make sure that you balance the pack once in a while. Many people who don't charge to 100% aren't balancing and don't even know it.

http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3074#p27176

Yes, that is the on-board charger (and also the DC-DC Converter). Unfortunately, an external charger cannot be used with the on-board charger simultaneously, the car will shut down with an over-current error. But, by having the car in READY, an external charger can be used on its own by tapping the HV bus, either in the MCU or by hi-jacking the quick charge circuit. Yes, those two cables on the right hand side of the MCU is where the battery connects. This is where the HV bus can be tapped. This is probably the preferred spot as it leaves the CHAdeMO port available for use. It also allows for easier connection to a second pack inside the car (please observe proper care when dealing with high voltage, and especially with high voltage battery packs, which can be live at all times and provide un-fused current).

[elektrolux]

Er nok enklere å satse på DC lading.

[elekTrond]

@KW: Takker for at du følger med på myimiev. Der er det mange kreative sjeler. Skal lese kildene til de to sitatene når jeg får tid. Det med solceller og Umax er også greit å kjenne til ser jeg.

@elektrolux: Ja jeg så i en annen tråd at du har en DC sak inne til evaluering. Hvor kompatibel er den evt. den modellserien med trillingene rent effektmessig? Du har fått ut litt forskjellig på ulike biler du har? Kan godt ta det i en annen tråd, hvis det passer deg bedre.

[elektrolux]

Kommer ann på spenningen, men på I-Miev kan du forvente rundt 6 kW fra en 10 kW DC Lader til rundt 50 000 kr