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Emner - habazot

#1
Hei, har eit Zebra batteri eg vil skrote, men all elektronikken er på, tenkte kanskje å skru det av og at nokon her er interessert i dette? Kan få heile batteriet for min del, men det har nok intern iso-feil. Special price for you, my friends :) Mvh Rolf (92403016)
#2
Zebra batteriet mitt frå 2008 tok kvelden tidlegare i haust. Eg fekk tak i eit nytt ubrukt frå 2010. På det nye batteriet er det komplett elektronikkpakke med BMI påmontert. Sidan det å bytte BMI er litt "skummelt" kan eg ikkje berre bruka den nye som den er?..
Eller er kanskje programvaren i den gamle pakken oppgradert ved service gjordt etter 2010 som eg burde få med meg?..
Kan eg få problem med "matching"; at PCU forventar ein gitt versjon av BMI?..
Hadde vore veldig greit om eg berre kunne plugge det nye rett inn...

Kva gjer eg med det gamle batteriet btw?..
BMI er kanskje salgbar vare?
#3
Har 2008 zebra med oppgradert PCU.

I går ville den ikkje ta lading. Ladekladd ser ok ut, og når eg kobler til kabelen høyrer eg to raske rele som slår inn (eller inn og ut..), men ingen vifter starter, og ladeindikatoren på dashbordet blinkar korte blink med nokre sekunds pausar.
Dette skal visstnok vera symptom på at batteriet er for kaldt og treng litt varme før ladinga startar.
Men ladinga startar ikkje..
Denne er i dagleg bruk og har stort sett fungert fint utan for mange hiccups.

Eg har montert OVMS og kan fiske ut batteri temperatur++, og der ser eg at batteristatus er 38%, temperaturen på pakken står og varierer sakte frå 262C til 268C og tilbake igjen. I manualen står det at den startar ladinga når temperaturen blir 270C. So ting ser eigentleg bra ut bortsett frå at batteriet ikkje blir varmt nok.

Er det slik at den må stå og "kalibrera" noko før den kjem opp på nødvendig varme?..
Det står jo at det tar minst 30 timar å varme opp batteriet, men då antar eg at det er heilt fra omgivelsestemperatur.?..

So kva teoriar kan eg ha om dette?
- alt er normalt, berre vent (eg forstår ikkje kvafor batteriet vart kaldt in the first place, men det kan tenkast at ein kulepenn har ramla under sikringsdekselet og holdt batterifrysknappen inne i 5sek++?)
- varmelekkasje i batteripakken
- varmelement i batteripakken eller sikring gåen (men kvifor varierer det fram og tilbake då, kjemi?)
- BMI er på villspor og treng eit hardt spark (må eg inn på verkstad eller er det "knep" for å nullstille?)

Vil gjerne kunne kjøyra til verkstad før batteriet blir for flatt dersom eg må det...
Akkurat no står den ganske stille på 38% so lenge kabelen er plugga inn.

Btw, eg lada 12V batteriet og for sikkerheits skuld.

Vyrdsamt Rolf
#4
"Nye" TH!NK City produsert fra 2008 - 2012 / Vaier til panser rauk
mandag 01. desember 2014, klokken 15:55
Hei, har problem med å opne panseret etter at vaieren til opnemekanismen rauk. Tips til korleis eg får opp panseret for å skifte hovedlyspæra før polti gjev meg ein slik fin lapp med ein sum på?..

Og er det fleire kjelder til til deler dersom R&S ikkje har det eg treng? (ny vaier + hendel under rattet som knakk)
#5
I bought my first Think 2008 model (I know, I'm a bit late to the party) in Oslo and needed to transport it to Bergen where I live,
So I decided I wanted to drive it over the mountains, and chose Hardangervidda as my target, since it is relatively flat; no really steep hills.

I started off from Bekkestua Saturday 19:15-ish, having charged to 100% at the local library. The goal was to be at work Monday morning in Bergen.

(I should probably mention that I tried driving two weeks earlier, but got stranded at Flå with a defect PCU and charging cable. So NAF brought it to Røhne-Selmer to do major surgery. If you are considering buying a Think check that the PCU is Gen1 and has been "enhanced". It might save you enough money to buy another one... I also opted for getting a different charger (Kopp from Salto) since my original one had gone flaky. The Kopp seems to work fine, I have had no issues with it this far.)

At 21:05 I arrived at Flå (127km) with 32% capacity left and intention of having dinner at the restaurant at Thon Hotel Bjørneparken. I put the charger in at Nes Prestegjelds Sparebank/Europris (no-one to ask, so I just have to say thank you!), every drop, sorry *ampere*, counts..

I found out they stopped serving meatballs at 21:00 *sharp*, so I was left with my other option: a burger at MacDonald's (how come I always feel like taking a shower after I have eaten at these places.?..).

So at 21:30 and 35% juice left in my battery, I aimed for my destination just north of Nesbyen (38km from Flå), Smedsgården Hotel. Half an hour later I was at this very charming place with really friendly Danish hosts. Just me, a group of elderly people on their way to a family reunion and a guy practicing his accordion. Lovely.

Anyway, they offered my to charge from a wall socket just outside the entrance since I was parked there. However, when half the kitchen and the vending machines in the reception area suddenly went dark they were kind enough to direct me to a dedicated socket on the corner of the building. That worked like a charm.

First leg done, time for a cigar.

The next morning my plan was to drive to Geilo (65km) and take a break and recharge a few hours before commencing the main distance: crossing Hardangervidda and driving down to Eidfjord (90km) before charging again.

I started off from Smedsgården 08:30 with 90% capacity and arrived Geilo with 45% left an hour later (Hol-Geilo have some steep hills). Just by the Statoil station Hallingdal Kraftnett have their offices with quite a few charging stations, all 16A. So I opted to try those out. Since this was a Sunday there was no-one to ask, so I just have to send my usual "sorry, but thanks!" here :)

While charging I spent some quality time replacing the stereo with a new DAB/bluetooth/+++ thingy. Might as well enhance my ride while at it (see separate thread).

At 12:30 and 70% capacity I decided it was time to go. Unfortunately it was raining (heavily) so there was no time to do a photo-shoot with the reindeers. All I can say is it was a smooth ride, the kind where you can't help but smiling all the way.

Down Måbødalen which is a several kilometers 8% downhill slope I tried to regenerate as much as I could, and managed to get maybe 5% more?
I'm not sure I like the way regeneration works in Drive, I believe I would have preferred to have it in Neutral as soon as I let go of the speed pedal.
And then maybe had a separate 2-level handle at the steering wheel controlling the regeneration level, more like a traditional bus.
Or maybe just each quick touch at the brake pedal could apply more and more regeneration. This has probably been discussed to death somewhere else, let's not derail into flames...

I arrived at Eidfjord a few minutes past 14:00 with 30% left, and started looking for a place to charge.
I found no obvious places and resorted to asking the X&Y gas station for help. And indeed; I could just drive into their garage and plug it in. Friendly as few, the kind you really want to be able to give back to. So I bought a hot dog. And the half price "free coffee refills 2013" mug. Although I don't have any X&Y station close to where I live.
And why should I need to go to a gas station now that I'm all electric, haha! Oohh, yes, charging. And coffee. And hot dogs. Oh well...

While I watched cruise-ships, tourists looking for postcards and bikers (and took a small nap) the juice-o-meter rose to 50% and I decided to leave about 17:00.

The Hardangerfjordbrua bridge just opened the day before and I might just be the first Think to go across? Maybe even the first EV? Dunno, unless you come up with hard evidence I will claim victory at August 18th 17:30. Just before crossing the bridge I noticed that my mobile was mounted at an angle and had the lens at the right place to be able to shoot video while driving. So I have a clip of me driving across the bridge as evidence.. :)

Arrived at my parents place in Norheimsund at 18:15 (75km later) with 10% power left. No power limiter but the friendly "recharge NOW, or we're all gonna diiee..." warning light. Luckily there was a 16A available in the garage (just had to evict my parents car..).

Time to enhance my ride: replace some bulbs with LEDs.
And take a boat trip (caught nothing, where are all you fish hiding.?..).

Second leg done.
Almost there.
Time for a cigar.

This morning the car was 100% again and I set off to Bergen which is 81km away. Arrived at work 09:00 sharp with 55% capacity left. Victory!

I could have pushed harder and reduced the trip to a single sleepover, but I'm quite happy with how things turned out, it was an enjoyable trip. Would do it again :)
#6
Hi,

Just a writeup on the process of replacing the stock stereo with something a bit more up to date.

I opted to buy this one:
http://www.finn.no/finn/torget/annonse?finnkode=40200232&searchQuery=LG+DAB

Fair price and it had all the features I wanted (DAB, handsfree, bluetooth audio streaming from Android/iOS, ++)

- remove detachable front panel of original stereo
- gently remove black bezel surrounding the front panel
- insert the two special removal tools on each side of the unit (I did not have the original ones, but fortunately the ones shipped with the new stereo fitted and could be used)
- pull out the old stereo
- detach all cables
- remove the metal frame left in the dashboard (you will have to bend a few locking tags in the metal frame to get it out)

Ok, you are at ground zero. Now install the new cables to go with the new functionality:
- figure out where to place the DAB antenna (yes, you will need a separate antenna from the original FM antenna, it usually ships with the stereo). I put mine on the rear side window on the driver side to avoid having to look at it while driving.. :)
I have also read that it should be not mounted behind the black window decor. Not sure if it should be mounted vertically or horizontally, I chose horizontally. Time will tell if that was a smart move... Ideally I would like to put it under the roof and out of sight, but not sure if that completely destroys reception, others might comment on this...
- remove the cover on the driver side front post by pulling it upwards. The existing cables (FM + potentially GSM/GPS should be exposed).
- glue the DAB antenna to the rear window (make sure to clean it first with a detergent)
- gently start inserting the DAB antenna cable with a screwdriver or other blunt instrument into mid beam cover (above the safety belt)
- continue inserting the cable under the roof cover by gently bending the rubber seal to get access
- when inserted it all the way to the front post gently pull the cable to straigthen it
- I chose to put the microphone to the handsfree at the top of the front post, attatch the mic where you want it to be located (I just temporarily fixed it to the rubber seal while doing the cables).
- the original cables were a bit all over the place so I chose to strap the two new wires (DAB + mic) together with the existing cables and taped them according to the cabling "slot" in the front post cover
- put the end of the cables into the same hole the other cables come out from under the dashboard
- put your arm under the dash and get hold of the cables and gently pull to remove any excess cables on top of the dash
- you can now put the post cover back in place again and make sure the mic is placed where you want it (I just put it in the squeeze between the post and roof covers)

Now to the fun part where you wish you had done some more yoga:
- to avoid any cables messing up the pedals, steering or other vital parts I chose to strap the cables to the existing wiring harness going from the side of the car into the slot where the stereo is supposed to go. This requires putting you head and hands where they do not belong; under the dash under the steering wheel...
- pull the cables gently out the car stereo slot when you finally have gotten them that far

You are almost done!
- put all the cables through the new metal frame to be inserted into the car stereo slot
- insert the metal frame and bend the matching tags to properly fix it
- attach all the cables to the new stereo (I needed a ISO to DIN FM antenna converter like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170654646966)
- tidy up the cables with straps
- slide the new stereo in
- mount the black bezel
- snap in the front
- test it!

I have attached some photos of the process, but not all of the steps...

There might be a follow-up as I plan to install some proper two-way 13cm speakers instead of the 10cm coffe filters currently mounted. I guess if you found the right 16.5cm speakers they could fit, but I wanted to keep the original covers for some reason..
Please post references to successful installs of decent speakers.
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