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Bilmerker => Tidlige elbiler: Think => "Nye" TH!NK City produsert fra 2008 - 2012 => Emne startet av: Poppe på søn 18. okt 2015, kl. 09:36
I took the heater apart to see if I could fix it.
Heres whats inside for you who has not done this operation:
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2a4vdpl.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/10eq4bp.jpg)
If I measure the input resistance on the orange HV wires I find its about 700 Ohms, obviously too high.
Inside there are two heater elements both measuring about 12 Ohms which seems to be OK.
All cables are going in to the yellow plastics at the bottom of the heater and I figure there is something inside there which has gone wrong. The 10.000 dollar question is whats inside the plastic ?
Anybody knows ?
It's a fuse in the yellow resin which probably has blown, unfortunately it's very hard to drill it out...
I've seen pictures of it in this forum, and I'll try to find the right thread for you...
Edit: http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php/topic,3773.msg61453.html#msg61453
Thanks Warlock for your input.
I tried to read the whole thread and that took a while.
If I understand everything correctly I should measure the HV power where the heater is connected. If I measure 370V there the fault must be in the heater itself and then its likely that it is the big fuse that has left the building.
Yes
Unfortunately, if you have a gen2 CPU (oval to square plug), the plug must be connected, or the interlock will disable the car, and the HW system. You might need to use probes or something...
Fortunatly I have a gen1 CPU. ;)
I'm I correct to understand that if I had had a Gen2 the connector to the heater would have had 4 wires ? Two for the HV +/- and two for diagnostics to check the connector is in place ?
My plug is round and has only two wires.
Partly correct.
It would still only have 2 wires out of it, but have in addittion to the two thicker pins to connect to the HW outlet, have two much smaller pins (which is shorted inside the connector) for the interlock...
If you have a round connector, you have a gen0 or gen1 CPU :)
hma wrote i the other thread:SitatFør man kjøper en slik må man måle om "power current elevatoren" (kortslutningskretsløpet) er permanent kortsluttet.
Det kan man gjøre ved å måle motstand mellom HV- og halvledersikringen.
Unfortunatly he does not mention what the result of the measurement should be ???
I managed to work myself into the yellow polyuerathane (?) which was quite easy with the help of a heatgun and a screwdriver. Mustn't heat to much though since the PU, if it is, gives off toxic fumes when too hot (smoking).
Anyway, from HV+ I have zero resistance to either side of the big fuse. Not sure if this is good or not ?
Have not been able to check the HV yet since the Think has only been at home in the dark.
since this is a semi-conducting fuse it should only conduct in one direction. Maybe your multimeter has diode-test function?
Sitat fra: Warlock på man 19. okt 2015, kl. 20:35
since this is a semi-conducting fuse it should only conduct in one direction. Maybe your multimeter has diode-test function?
I have never heard of such fuses - Do you happen to have a link to a such semiconducting fuse?
Here's a link to a seller of the fuse:
http://www.highpowersemiconductors.com/product-detail.aspx?productID=2573
As can be seen printed on the fuse there is a fuse and a diode in series but how do I know which end is which ?
Just noticed: On the page linked above you can see "Polarity: N/A "
How can that be when a diode is involved ?
Found a tech spec:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1468450.pdf
I measured it today with a diode test multimeter and the resistance is exactly zero Ohms in iether direction. Cant figure out if this is good or bad or what the reading should have been.
As far as I can see from the spec pdf there is no mentioning of any diode functionality.
Hmm
In that case i must apologize.
I went with the schematics drawn upon it (under the bussman logo) it is clearly drawn a fuse and a diode :) It also made some sense in the general schematics in the other tread.
Anyway, if the fuse conducts it's at least not blown...
What hma is refering to is the heaters self safety feature, and this fuse should be a part of it.
When my girlfriends heater was in question i measured the HW output to ground, and found the negative line with some voltage, but partly floating. The positive line had no voltage (the PCU fuse was blown...)
The heater turned out to work tho. I Also Megged the unit, made sure it had no shortages towards ground. And after I had changed the PCU fuse to 25A everything worked as it should... And still do, knock on wood...
I do believe hma mentions in another tread what you could expect when you measure the heater.
I'll have a look for that to...
Ok
In this tread: http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php/topic,11973.msg174342.html
I've noted that i measured the fuse and there shoud e a diode there somewhere...
("1. Målte halvledersikringen i varmeren, 0.4V drop over dioden i lederetningen, og uendelig motstand i motsatt retning.")
I don't remember opening the heater tho, just measuring on the leads out of it, hmm...
It wont even help to open the heater you have to carv the fuse out to access the terminals. Dont think you would forget that.
I know
So: No, I defiantly didn't do that :)
I messed around with it for a hole afternoon tho, so i might have come up with a nasty trick.
But this means you could measure (some of) the safety circuit from the HW-leads and the ground-wire.
I've been trying to fin the Mes-Dea manual i once found with a schematic in it explaining the circuitry, unfortunately, I haven't been lucky so far...
I wish you the best of luck in finding the documentation !
Meanwhile I'm beginning to think it is a misconception about the diode fuse. There is nothing in the papers that indicates there is any semiconductor involved except for two things: 1) The symbol on the fuse and 2) The company name that someone found where they can be bought (High power semiconductors).
In the case of my fuse which leads equally well in both directions it does not seem likely that a possible internal diode has been short circuited but the fuse itself is still in good order. Further it says that the polarity is N/A in an installation and I can not see any indications in pictures or on my diode that there should be a polarity on it.
Further more this a an HRC component meaning it can separate high currents once it has blown. In this case 950A. What would a diode do there ?
If you did not dig in to diode to measure in your GF's car, would it be possible that you measured some other protective diode accessible from the outside ? Could there be a "wrong polarity diode" at the input of the heater to make sure the fuse in the PSU blows and not the expensive heater ??
The manufacturer of the fuse is Eaton which is a very VERY big company and I'm not sure it would be possible to get them to answer such a basic question.
Yes, I also believe i measured several components in one go, one of them being a diode of some sort, or acting in that way. The only reason i thought it to be in the fuse is the symbol on it, but as you say it doesn't make too much sense...
The diode symbol on the fuse is to signal that the fuse is so fast that it is suitable for protecting semiconductor components.
There are no diodes in these fuses.
Thanks Nikolay
Good to have that cleared out, now its only the rest left ;)
I am not sure how far are you Poppe...
The heater is pulse controlled, and has some electronics inside.
Have you checked that you get 300+ VDC on the heater plug when the car is started?
Maybe you want to write couple of lines to describe what you did - I think I got lost in this fuse discussion.
Actually I have not yet checked the 370V since the Think, being driven to university by one son every day, has not been home lately until after dark.
In hind sight that is obviously where I should have started if I had red all information here.
Anyway the heater does not work at all since some months and before that it was working sometimes.
I have dismantled the heater and seen it has two heating elements which both are 12 Ohms which seem to be a reasonable value.
When I took it apart I could not dream of the complexity of the electronics I have later learned what is inside the yellow PU. After all, how hard can it be to warm some water ? Obviously very hard !
So the fuse is not gone, the heating elements seem ok and the 370 is unknown. I hope he will be home earlier today.
Home early today before sundown.
Yes, I have 343V on the outlet for the heater with some 50% SOC.
I also measured from HV minus to the big fuse and there is no short curcuit there through the Power Current Elevator.
BTW is there always HV to the heater when ignition is on ?
How does the control signal from the heater ECU look like ? Is it just a 12V for on and 0V for off ? Cant be that simple can it ?
It's that simple, the system rapidly turn it on and off, varying the length of how long its on versus how long it is off. This determines how much heat the unit is producing. This is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).
Ok, that simple !
What should I measure when I test the third cable to the heater ecu. Not the on/off or ground but the "trouble" wire.
Is that only a temp probe or something else ?
Found this as a description of the Error pinout:
"
FAULT_OUT
Fault output (Open Collector:MAX 10 mA, 50 V), in case of:
- Overvoltage
- Overtemperature, T >= 80°C
- Fluid flow interruption (Temperature Gradient based algorithm)
- Fluid absence detected (Temperature Gradient based algorithm)
- Intermittent when the temperature is in the right range after (2-3-4) fault condition: the normal operating will automatically reestablish
"
Sitat fra: Warlock på tor 22. okt 2015, kl. 18:23
It's that simple, the system rapidly turn it on and off, varying the length of how long its on versus how long it is off. This determines how much heat the unit is producing. This is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).
If you are referring to the enable pin (HEATER_EN) - this is not true.
In fact turning the heater on and off by using the enable pin is expressly forbidden by MES-DEA. I think they call it "misuse".
Sitat fra: Poppe på tor 22. okt 2015, kl. 17:50
Home early today before sundown.
Yes, I have 343V on the outlet for the heater with some 50% SOC.
I also measured from HV minus to the big fuse and there is no short curcuit there through the Power Current Elevator.
BTW is there always HV to the heater when ignition is on ?
How does the control signal from the heater ECU look like ? Is it just a 12V for on and 0V for off ? Cant be that simple can it ?
There is always HV to the heater (and the plug next to it) when the ignition is on... (let's make a fast charger!!)
The control signal is either enable or disable. When enabled heater is keeping the temperature of the liquid at a certain level (say 75C). It has internal electronics that do the PWM from the high voltage input. So in reality the max power of the heater is much higher than 4kW (or was it 3), but it averages at approximately that. When the liquid reaches the 75C level the heater is switching itself off, until the temperature goes down with some threshold. And then it is back to ON.
Sitat fra: BauDemo på tor 22. okt 2015, kl. 22:59
Sitat fra: Warlock på tor 22. okt 2015, kl. 18:23
It's that simple, the system rapidly turn it on and off, varying the length of how long its on versus how long it is off. This determines how much heat the unit is producing. This is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).
If you are referring to the enable pin (HEATER_EN) - this is not true.
In fact turning the heater on and off by using the enable pin is expressly forbidden by MES-DEA. I think they call it "misuse".
I understand the heater is a selfregulating system that internally goes on/off depending of the amount of heat taking out of it regulated by mechanical heater settings, but still HEATER_EN must be some kind of signal (that I might not have for whatever reason). So If I measure this signal what should I expect to find ?
Where exactly is Mes Dea say its forbidden to use this signal to regulate the heat ?
SitatThe control signal is either enable or disable.
I would guess from your comment that its 12V for On and 0V for Off.Sitat fra: Warlock på tor 22. okt 2015, kl. 20:40
Found this as a description of the Error pinout:
"
FAULT_OUT
Fault output (Open Collector:MAX 10 mA, 50 V), in case of:
- Overvoltage
- Overtemperature, T >= 80°C
- Fluid flow interruption (Temperature Gradient based algorithm)
- Fluid absence detected (Temperature Gradient based algorithm)
- Intermittent when the temperature is in the right range after (2-3-4) fault condition: the normal operating will automatically reestablish
"
This I only partly understand.
"Overvoltage" I guess from the HV, should be simple to monitor.
"Overtemp" Also easy.
"Fluid flow interruption and Fluid absence detected" If the temperature rises to fast the electronics detect that there is no water or the water does not circulate (broken pump).
"Intermittent when the temperature ..." All faults described here except Overvoltage are self resetting.
"Fault output " Is there a for instance 12V signal on the "Fault Out" and when a fault is detected the heater suddenly starts to draw 10 mA ?
Sitat fra: BauDemo på tor 22. okt 2015, kl. 22:59
Sitat fra: Warlock på tor 22. okt 2015, kl. 18:23
It's that simple, the system rapidly turn it on and off, varying the length of how long its on versus how long it is off. This determines how much heat the unit is producing. This is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).
If you are referring to the enable pin (HEATER_EN) - this is not true.
In fact turning the heater on and off by using the enable pin is expressly forbidden by MES-DEA. I think they call it "misuse".
I was referring to how the heater regulates...
The Heater_EN signal on the other hand is only documented as follows (of what i can find):
"
HEATER_EN (10 mA @ 12 V)
To enable the heater:
- The Heater will be enabled with HEATER_EN input to 12 V (Min 8V , Max 18V)
- The Heater will be disabled with HEATER_EN input floating or to GND
- Available 24V version
"
also of some interest:
"
Fluid Flow Interruption Control
The Heater can detect a fluid flow interruption (Temperature Gradient based algorithm), in this case FAULT_OUT is activated ( set to GND), and the heater is disabled. To reenabled the device , HEATER_EN must fall from HIGH to LOW state and then rise from LOW to HIGH again, or automatically after 1 min if the temperature return in the normal range.
Liquid Absence Detection
(Same as above)
General Considerations
The Heater does not accept reverse polarity (semiconductor fuse protected). The FAULT_OUT signal is intended for Heater monitoring only , and can not be used as logical command for other devices of the vehicle. This restriction is due to the delayed activation of FAULT_OUT, in case of detection of a fluid interruption or fluid absence.
"
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4d6m4ko8y1z9t6w/MES-Dea%20Fluid%20Heater%20RM3_RM4.pdf?dl=0
Thanks for the info and the pdf !
Just checked the Enable and Fault.
I connected the 12V connector only and when I turn ignition and fan on I get 12V to enable of the heater.
I also measured between Enable and Fault. If I understand it right the Fault shall go to ground when the heater shall be disabled. I can immediatly measure 12V between E and F when ignition is turned on. Is this because of a fault or because HV is not connected ?
Should I connect HV and try again, without water? Or should I pour som clean water into the heater and but not connect it to the heating system ? I really dont want a lot of antifreeze all over the place again.
I just did what I suggested above.
The mrs was the ignition on/off person and immediatly, when switching on, the Nicometer now shows about 4kW more then before she reported !!
After about a minute steam started to come out of the heater.
It works again but how and why ?
Maybe the heater reset itself when you disconnected everything and grounded some lines (for instance the enable line)? We do not know exactly how this resetting safety system (fuse) works...
I thought it said in the heater manual that it was self reseting for evry problem except over voltage ?
Thanks Warloch and Nikolay for your support :)
Hi !
Could this be of some use ?
Sitat fra: Frederic på søn 25. okt 2015, kl. 11:41
Hi !
Could this be of some use ?
Yeah!
Forgot about that one (when i saved this pdf i noticed i had one with the same name ;)).
The software in the Climate control module might be doing strange reset tries, or just cutting out the enable signal all together. It might even set the line in a tri-state...
Thanks Fredric
Unfortunatly my Think is not in the VIN range for the field action
5372 to 6113. Mine is 4230.
The warm feeling form the heater did not last very long. 2-3 days according to my son the driver.
I now suspect I have a intermittent break somewhere.
Hi,
I did repair the heater on my car. It allso worked intermitten. The fault was bad soldering of the wires going to the temp sensor. The sensor i situated in a seald copper tube in the midle of the heating elements.
Sitat fra: EXCEL på søn 01. nov 2015, kl. 23:42
Hi,
I did repair the heater on my car. It allso worked intermitten. The fault was bad soldering of the wires going to the temp sensor. The sensor i situated in a seald copper tube in the midle of the heating elements.
Do you happen to have any photo showing the sealed copper tube? It would really help!
Sitat fra: BauDemo på man 02. nov 2015, kl. 11:13
Sitat fra: EXCEL på søn 01. nov 2015, kl. 23:42
Hi,
I did repair the heater on my car. It allso worked intermitten. The fault was bad soldering of the wires going to the temp sensor. The sensor i situated in a seald copper tube in the midle of the heating elements.
Do you happen to have any photo showing the sealed copper tube? It would really help!
(http://i57.tinypic.com/2a4vdpl.jpg)
You can see it on your own picture, on the right side near the top ;)
This is not my picture, but just to make sure here is the same photo with marked what I think you mean... does the arrow point to the tube that needs to be openend?
Yes, this is the one. The sensor is placed in the tip of the copper tube.
Please note that the tube is filed with some kind of flexible glue.....
Sitat fra: EXCEL på man 02. nov 2015, kl. 23:33
Yes, this is the one. The sensor is placed in the tip of the copper tube.
Please note that the tube is filed with some kind of flexible glue.....
Thanks - good to know!
What/how did you do it? If you were to do it again what would you do differently?
Is it possible to unscrew the tube, or it needs to be cut?
I had to split the tube to access the sensor and the two wires. I re soldered the connection. I introduced a new copper tube. This copper tube was flatten and soldered in the end situated inside of the heater chamber. Please make sure that the sensor works before moving on. If the sensor is faulty, you can by a new one from Elfa.se (73-276-79)
Then I reinserted the sensor and filed the tube with SicaFlex.
Excel,
I have the same heater problem on my car. I will check the sensor on mine as well. But how did you find out that is was the temp sensor? Fault message?
Was the resistance on the pins not as expected?
Sitat fra: haakon88t på ons 04. nov 2015, kl. 10:20
Excel,
I have the same heater problem on my car. I will check the sensor on mine as well. But how did you find out that is was the temp sensor? Fault message?
Was the resistance on the pins not as expected?
Hi
I took the heater inside on the workbench. Did the standard measurement on the connector and concluded that it was OK.
Then I made a setup with 230VAC trough a fuse and then trough a rectifier (approx. 322VDC).
Then filed the heater with water and put the power on. I noticed that the heater started and then stopped when the water got warmer.
Based upon the intermittent behaviour of the heater I suspected a fault in the sensor. When I opened the copper tube I discovered that one of the wires was loos –only hold in place by the glue and not the solder. To make sure I mounted a new sensor, LM335Z/TO92.
My son is now very tired to go to university with random heating so this afternoon we decided to try to fix the mostly disconnected temp sensor.
We took out the heater, dismantled it and managed to remove the screw/nut around the copper tube.
The copper tube can now be pushed up/down (with some force) or be twisted about 120 degrees but that is all. It can not be pulled up due to the bend in the lower part. It can not be pulled down since it then hits the heating tubes. If I cut it in between the heating tubes there is no way I could make a solid solder after fixing the intermittent connection.
It seems I have to remove both heating tubes before removing the copper tube, is it really that bad ?
I hope you are making photos?
Nikolay, I thought I you had an answer for me :(
Yes, I will document as I go along.
Sitat fra: Poppe på ons 24. feb 2016, kl. 18:48
Nikolay, I thought I you had an answer for me :(
I am sorry - I have never opened such heater, and know very little about it.
In fact I bought a very expensive "replacement" from calix year ago.
So I am hoping that you or someone else would figure this nasty design out.
Getting the tube out was really a bitch. Now i need a new piece of copper tubing.
Unfortunatly there is no bad connection so my hope is that the sensor is broken. Anyone have any info on how to check it for broken ?
I measured it with an ohmmeter and it is about 36kOhm in both directions which seem a little strange for something described as a zener diod thingy.
I have pictures to upload later.
A new development, the big fuse is now blown which is probably why the heater has been totally inactive the last few months but it could not possibly be the cause of intermittent function before that.
Why does the fuse blow ?
It is clamed that fuse have a "selfdestruct" circuit loop to kill itself if the unit gets too hot. However, since the internal fuse of the heater is 56A and the fuse in the PCU is 20-25A its still a mystery why it blows. It might be a current spike, a "coil effect", form the other fuse blowing tho...
Unless someone has a new pcb, the one that goes inside the bottom of the heater to sell, this is the end of the road.
As you can see from the picture I managed to work myself down through the polyurethane whit the help of a heat gun and a screwdriver. Without heat the PU is very tough to work but heat makes it more brittle and it is possible to remove it in small chunks. You have to take it easy with the heat though since if the PU starts to smoke it is toxic. Working outside can be recommended.
Another problem is that the PU adhere very good to the smd components on the pcb and at least one capacitor came out with a chunk of PU. I have it and knows where it was but I will probably have to remove all the PU to be able to get the pcb out to resolder. The fat cables laying alla over is not much of a help either.
I will most likely try to get hold of a fuel burning heater instead.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/29qlgmd.jpg)
Hey, hva en varmeovn konstruksjon. Bra at dette blir diskutert.
Power current elevator= utløser sikringen ved shorting. Ikke tro!
Fuse i tetningsmasse. Fuck!
Vel, er HVDC et IT-system (isolert Terra) og farlig spenning.
Beskyttelse av nedleggelse/ beskjed (de=Schutz durch Abschaltung / Meldung)_
isolasjonsfeil og noen andre feil mulig. Kontrollen kommer fra CDCM enhet =f (Cabin-temperatur).
Utsikt Circuit HVDC:
Høy kortslutningsstrøm_ resulterer i korte turn-off_ egenskaper konvergerer_ no selektivitet
Sketch kjennetegn ved 20A og 56A sikringer.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2e4U9RrFSvTamR2Z1UwbkhOTTg/view?usp=sharing
Nedenfor gjennom kurvene sammen. Konfrontasjon kurve Thermal tur.
Strøm gjennom sikringer er ikke DC eller AC / 50 eller 60 Hz.
Lurer på hva innflytelse PWM-modulert strøm til utløser.
(Lignende spørsmål i sikring for ELTEK Charger Traction batteri.
20A fast blow / PCU Fuse Board -FU5)
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_505_datasheet.pdf.pdf
Med dyptfølt sympati
Hvem vet hvor lenge min pot still oppvarmet. HANS
Hans
Your message is the first in this entire four pages long thread that is not in English. Its not even in Norwegian but in google Norwegian and I cant understand close to anything of your reply.
I was hoping some of the locals would come in and help me out which is why I have waited a while with my answer. Maybe they dont understand either !?
Please come back with your answer in any other language, french, german, catalan but of course english is prefered.
Da habe ich dem Translater zu viel zugetraut. Entschuldigung.
Möchte mich besonders für die Heater Information bedanken!
Meine Überlegungen zur 20 und 56A Sicherung wollte ich nur mitteilen.
Was für eine Heizer Bauweise. Gut, daß dies besprochen wird.
Power current elevator= Auslösung der Sicherung mittels Kurzschluß. Nicht zu glauben!
Sicherung in Vergußmasse. Fuck!
Nun gut, HVDC ist ein IT-System (isolated Terra) und gefährliche Spannung.
Schutz durch Abschaltung_ Isolationsfehler sowie einige andere Fehler möglich.
Die Steuerung kommt vom CDCM unit =f(Cabin-Temperatur).
Betrachtung Stromkreis HVDC:
Hoher Kurzschlußstrom_ ergibt kurze Abschaltzeit_ Kennlinien konvergieren_ keine Selektivität
Skizze Kennlinien der 20A und 56A Sicherungen.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2e4U9RrFSvTamR2Z1UwbkhOTTg/view?usp=sharing
Unten laufen die Kennlinien zusammen. Gegenüberstellung Kurve Thermischer Auslöser.
Strom durch Sicherungen ist nicht DC und auch nicht AC / 50 or 60Hz.
Frage mich, welchen Einfluß hat PWM modulierter Strom auf die Auslösung.
(Ähnliche Frage bei der Sicherung zum ELTEK Charger Traction Battery. Auslösung auch unbekannt.)
20A fast blow / PCU Fuse Board -FU5
http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_505_datasheet.pdf.pdf
Mit herzlicher Anteilnahme
Wer weiß, wie lange mein Topf noch heizt. HANS
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Trying english:
Since I have the Translate credited too much. Sorry.
Want to thank especially for Heater Information!
My reflections on the 20 and 56A fuse I just wanted to say.
What a heater construction. Good that this is discussed.
Power current elevator = triggering the fuse by shorting. Incredible!
Assurance encapsulant. Fuck!
Well, HVDC is an IT system (isolated Terra) and hazardous voltage.
Protection by Abschaltung_ insulation fault and some other errors possible.
The control comes from CDCM unit = f (Cabin-temperature).
Contemplation Circuit HVDC:
High short circuit current results in short turn-off characteristics converge no selectivity
Sketch characteristics of the 20A and 56A fuses.
Down through the curves together. Confrontation curve Thermal trip.
Current through fuses is not DC nor AC / 50 or 60Hz.
Wonder what influence PWM-modulated current to the triggering.
(Similar question in securing for ELTEK Charger Traction Battery. Also unknown blowing)
20A almost blow / PCU Fuse Board -FU5
With heartfelt sympathy
Who knows how long my pot still heated.
>PTC-Heater< a alternative ?
It's only information / PTC Retro-Fit Instructions 10-15-2012 / 2.6MiB:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2e4U9RrFSvTOVFSZHBaWi1GcWs/view?usp=sharing
Urspr. Yahoo Groups / think_ev
Someone knows:
Function details ? Versus block diagram ? Power ?
[Additional info: There is a open question in US about HVDC pre charge resistor burning.]
HANS
Very interesting !
It looked very promising until the reprogram bit appeared. I have no access to such a tool.
Hi,
There is another solutions for Think City heating system.
We, in ELBILMEK AS can fix this problem.
Problem with original heaters and with CALIX replacements is that they use PWM controlling power to the heating elements. This way is very good and effective for controlling power, but it is expensive to make good quality electronics.
We offer to the market overbuild heaters with different heating elements and control board.
We started install them two years ago and none of them comeback with isolation fault (like original units)
Also, there is one more solution: Webasto heating. It works good also.
Can you give us a price on such an installation?
12 250 kr for unit with installation ant 1 year guaranty